Okuchi bakama (大口袴)

Okuchi bakama is red-colored wide sleeve hakama which is worn as underwear of the outer hakama for sokutai shozoku (traditional ceremonial court dress).

The authentic okuchi bakama was sometimes called "akaokuchi," to differentiate it from white or pale blue okuchi bakama which was later worn by boys or samurai as outer wear.

Shape

Okuchi bakama is an ankle-length (called "tsuitake," full length of height) kiri-hakama (short fringe hakama) of 144 centimeters wide (72 centimeters for each side) which is tailored with red hiraginu (plain silk.)

Although it is a lined garment, the unused part of the outer material is folded back and used as the lining cloth, which is a process called "Hikikaechinourauchi."

Okuchi bakama has only one long waist cord (called "Koshiippon") sewn on with both ends hanging, while present-day hakama has two waist cords (one in front and another in back).

The waist cord is first crossed at the right hip and then tied at the left hip. As a rule okuchi bakama is red, but there were "kokiiro (dark color)" okuchi bakama dyed with madder and lithospermum root for "Noshozoku" of young people.

High-ranking nobility wore okuchi bakama of reddish yellow (color of a dead and fallen leaf) from age 40 onwards, as the aged. Shukutoku, men of exceptionally old age, wore white okuchi bakama.

Other types of okuchi bakama

For hanjiri (short informal clothes) costume of court noble boys, either white okuchi bakama called "Saiharinookuchi" or sashinuki (a type of hakama, pleated trousers for formal wear) was worn.

It is very firm garment with two waist cords (one in front and another in back), its front panel tailored with seigo, and its back panel tailored with oseigo.
(For details, see "Seigo-ori.")

As for hitatare (court dress) costume of samurai during the Muromachi period, "Ushirobarinookuchi" was used, which is also a white hakama but its front is tailored with oseigo while the back is tailored with seigo.